Meyer lemons add some spring to this seasonal pasta dish
Welcome to Something’s Cooking, a new monthly food column where I cook with the seasons, letting what’s around us locally guide what ends up on the table.
I’m Jai Dattani. Born and raised in London, I’ve spent the last 12 years living across Australia, Amsterdam, and Mumbai. For nearly five years now, I’ve been proud to call Larchmont home.
For many, cooking is a chore. For me, it’s a creative endeavor. I’m endlessly inspired by the places I’ve lived and traveled, and I like to fold those influences into whatever ingredients are catching my eye, whether at the farmers market or the grocery store. My hope is that this column brings a little inspiration—and a little joy—into your kitchen each month.
As a British native, the idea that this time of year signals spring still feels slightly absurd, but in Los Angeles, it makes perfect sense. Over the past week, the jasmine in my courtyard has begun to perfume the air in the mornings and early evenings, and it’s given me a noticeable pep in my step. At the market, winter citrus is still going strong with fragrant Meyer lemons, while the first tender zucchinis are starting to appear. This in-between moment, when winter hasn’t quite let go and spring is quietly arriving, is the grounding for my inaugural recipe.
It’s a pasta dish with all the comfort of a risotto but lifted by the brightness of lemon and zucchini. I like to use ditalini, those small O-shaped tubes that drink up flavor, but orzo works just as well.
WINTER CITRUS, like these Meyer lemons, are still fragrant and flavorful.
Pasta Dish
For an individual portion, bring a medium pot of water to a boil and salt generously.
In a large, wide-bottomed pan, sweat one diced white onion with a heavy pinch of salt in a generous glug of olive oil over medium heat for about 10 minutes, until soft and translucent but not colored.
Add the zest of one Meyer lemon and two cloves of garlic, minced, stirring briefly until the garlic loses its raw edge.
Add one can of Great Northern beans, liquid and all, followed by a full can of water and one teaspoon of Better Than Bouillon stock paste. I prefer the roasted vegetable version, but any variety will work. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer.
While that cooks, add about 150 grams of ditalini or orzo to the boiling water. Cook it for roughly 30% less time than the package instructions. For me, that was six minutes.
Meanwhile, chop six baby zucchinis, or two regular-sized ones, into small chunks, slightly larger than the beans. Add them to the pan along with three stems of Tuscan kale, cut down the center and sliced into thin strips. Keeping everything a similar size helps it cook evenly.
When the pasta timer goes off, reserve one cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta and add it to the pan with the beans and vegetables. Add about one-half cup of the reserved pasta water and simmer for four minutes, adding a little more as needed. You’re aiming for a consistency that’s looser than a sauce but not quite soup.
Remove from the heat and add the juice of the lemon used earlier, along with a generous grind of black pepper. Stir, taste, and adjust seasoning as needed. Finish with a generous grating of Parmesan.
Serve with a good hunk of crusty bread, Parmesan, and a drizzle of chili oil.
It’s the kind of dish that feels grounding yet hopeful, much like this time of year. I’ll see you next month.
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